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CNN Article: Pilgrimage to Machu Picchu: Six tips

By Richard Bangs, Special to CNN

Fri June 15, 2012

STORY HIGHLIGHTS

• Going directly to Machu Picchu may help alleviate altitude sickness
• Hold onto your entrance ticket so you can exit to use facilities and re-enter
• You can go by foot or train; be sure to book early

(CNN) -- Machu Picchu. It's on most everybody's bucket list, and for good reasons. It is one of the most transcendentally beautiful spots on earth. But how do you get to the Peruvian Andes, and what do you do to make the trip easy, comfortable and meaningful?

It's not the attitude, but the altitude

Cuzco, the gateway to Machu Picchu, is more than 11,000 feet above sea level, a height that can cause altitude sickness, especially for travelers coming from low elevations. Machu Picchu is at 7,874 feet, so the best plan to mitigate altitude sickness is to arrive at Cuzco in the morning (the first flight from Lima departs at 6 a.m.) and then immediately grab the first train down to Machu Picchu. Enjoy Cuzco on the back end after acclimatization.

How do you get there?

Several airlines have direct service from U.S. gateways to Lima, and from there it is an hour flight to Cuzco, the ancient Inca capital. LAN Airlines has the most direct routing as it serves several major U.S. cities, including Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco and Miami, with a seamless link to Cuzco.

Once in Cuzco the choices are generally foot or train down to Machu Picchu. The Inca Trail is a five-day trek over some high passes. It is a spectacular way to enter the citadel of Machu Picchu, but it requires a measure of fitness. It is easy to take several types of trains the 70 miles from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of the Lost City. The most deluxe train experience is the one-car Incan Princess.

Once at Aguas Calientes it is a bus ride up a steep, severe chevron of a road to the Sacred City of the Inca. The government now limits the number of visitors to 5,000 a day, so it's best to get your ticket in advance, as some folks have been turned away at the entrance gate after making the long trip. You can make your own arrangements or book through a number of veteran outfitters such as Mountain Travel Sobek. They will arrange all tickets, transfers, transport, accommodations and guides.

When is the best time to see Machu Picchu?

Machu Picchu is open year-round, but October to April is the rainy season, and therefore it has the fewest visitors. The inconvenience of rain is offset by the lack to tourists, and it is worth considering. Avoid holidays if you can, as Machu Picchu and everything surrounding it is packed. Once at Aguas Calientes (hotel tip: check in at The Inkaterra), to avoid the crowds and witness one of the most spectacular sunrises in the world, take the first bus from Aguas Calientes, which leaves at 5:30 a.m. It's worth it.

Hints for inside the citadel

There are no bathrooms, restaurants or drinking water once you enter the site, but there are facilities just before the entrance. So hold onto your entrance ticket so you can exit and re-enter. Pack sunscreen, a sun hat and water. Weather in the Andes can also change in an instant, so you should also pack a rain jacket. Sturdy shoes are a must. If you are in reasonable shape, sign up to climb Huayna Picchu, the famous peak within the ruins that appears in most photos. They only allow 400 a day to climb, so sign up the day before and go early for best views.

What else can you do in the area?

If you have time, sign up for the day raft trip on the Urubamba through the Sacred Valley of the Incas -- one of the most spectacular float trips in the world. And, of course, plan on spending at least two days in Cuzco, a unique blend of European and Inca sensibilities with superb restaurants, hotels and accessible ruins.

And try to make a stop at the nearby Pisac market, one of the most colorful bazaars in the world. Most people visit Pisac on Sunday, the main market day, but there are smaller markets on Tuesday and Thursday.

Finally, consider extending your trip to other wonders of South America, including the Galapagos, Easter Island and Iguazu, all of which are served by LAN Airlines, with Lima as the hub.

What makes Machu Picchu so special?

There is a harmony of elements here, the man-made and the natural. It is a stunning integration of architecture, setting, function, space and form. The Inca knew something we seek: When order combines with complexity, when elegance appears effortless and when there is a coherent but unspoken relationship among the parts, then there is enduring beauty.

Richard Bangs is the producer for the upcoming public television special, "South America: Quest for Wonder." 

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Commonly Asked Questions before Booking your Inca Trek

Do you need to book ahead ?

          YES! It is imperative to book your trek in advance.  The classic Inca Trail is extremely regulated by the Peruvian government and now only allows 500 permits per day (this includes tourists and hiking staff). The alternative treks are less regulated, by still a lot of preparation goes into the hike and we book up quickly.

Is it possible to do without an agency?

          NO! Since June 2002 trekking independently on the Inca Trail has been prohibited. Regulations state that each trekker must be accompanied by a professionally qualified guide. The UGM (Unidad de Gestion Machu Picchu),is the regulatory body responsible for controlling access to MP and the Inca Trail. Companies must meet certain basic requirements proving that they have professional guides and good camping equipment, radio communications and emergency first aid including oxygen.  Their license is renewed each year in early March.

If the Inca Trail is booked, are their alternative treks to take?

          Yes, the Inca trail is not the only option to hiking to Machu Picchu – in fact, some of the alternative treks are more beautiful, less crowded and less expensive.  Here are a few:

Salkantay 7 day trek - moderate to difficult.

Ausangate 6 to 7 day trek - moderate to difficult

Lares Valley 4 day trek - moderate

Choquequirao 4 to 5 day trek - moderate

Vilcabamba 7 day trek - moderate

Are numbers of day visitors to Machu Picchu also limited, like those doing the Inca Trail hike? Or can I just buy the bus / train and entrance ticket on the day I want to go?

          No limit to Machu Picchu number of visitors, everyone can visit the ruins .You can stay overnight in Aquas Calientes and take the first bus up to the ruins, this way you see Machu Picchu before the 1500 visitors of the train arrive.  The trains are normally full so make your reservations in advance.

How Is the 2 days Inca trail ?

          The shorter Inca Trail is for those trekkers with limited time on their hands or who just want to take things a little bit easier. This trail starts at km104 and ascends to the ruins of Wiñay Wayna before continuing on to Machu Picchu. Since you don't have much time at Machu Picchu on the first day most people spend the night at the town of Aguas Calientes and return to MP again the following day. This trail is subject to the Inca Trail regulations and trek permits must be reserved well in advance

Should I pay for the extra porter?

          All treks include porters to carry all the hiking equipment which includes tents, food, dining equipment, etc. but you will need to pay extra for a porter to carry your belongings.  Each 8kg you want carried costs $65 USD.  Many people prefer to pay this instead of carrying their clothes on their back.  The lighter you pack the less weight/porters you will need to hire.  Remember that less is more.

Do I need to tip the porters/chef/guide?

Generally speaking if all the group have been pleased with the service then it is customary to tip your team.  If you aren’t sure about how much to tip the porters and chef, ask your guide and he will answer honestly. If you ever have equipment that you bought for the trek that you think you will never use again, gift them to our porters.  You will not find harder workers anywhere.

What is the weather on the Trail?

Weather on the Inca Trail

Just how tough is it? How fit do you have to be?

           It is a common misconception that because many people do the Inca Trail that it must be easy ... it isn't. The trail is 45km (26 miles) long and involves great physical exertion to complete. On the second day you climb nearly 1200m (about 4000 ft) in the morning. Combined with high altitude (lack of oxygen) and extreme weather (you can easily burn in the high altitude sun during the day and temperatures can drop to below freezing at night) the trek can be hard work. However all this suffering can make the final arrival at Machu Picchu all the more enjoyable.

What about Altitude sickness?

          In general if you take regular exercise and spend a few days in Cusco, or better, in the Sacred Valley, acclimatizing to the altitude you shouldn't have to suffer too much.  Just remember to walk slowly and let your body adjust. 

How many people in the groups?

          The maximum allowed group size is 16 people.

What does the trail look like in the peak season?

          It could get a little bit crowded, but with the regulations in place, you have enough space for everyone.

Are there toilets on the trail ?

          Toilets have improved a lot in the last couple of years and all of the larger campsites have toilet blocks with flush toilets and running water. On the whole they are kept pretty clean. 


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Last minute travellers, here's a DEAL for you.

Many of you are beginning to think about your summer vacation.  It may seem that a trip to Peru needs more planning, but don't count us out if you haven't booked your trip yet.  Any time Alpaca Expeditions has spots open on one of there treks, we will offer you that spot at a 25% discount of the cost.  Just mention that you have seen this article and are looking for trips that are already arranged. 

Unfortunately all of our Inca Trails are sold out - but alternative treks to Machu Picchu are just as beautiful and rewarding - the Salkantay trek is amazing and slightly more challenging than the Inca trail or the Lares trek allows you to meet Inca descendants and explore what life is like for them when you visit their village.  There are lots of amazing treks and tours in and around Machu Picchu, and we are excited to share them all with you.

Check out each of our treks and decide on which is best for you.

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Explore Machu Picchu with Alpaca

 

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Machu Picchu and Lima among top 10 destinations in South America

By Manuel Vigo

May 2, 2012

Machu Picchu and Lima were ranked among the top ten destinations in South America, in a survey carried out by TripAdvisor.

Machu Picchu was ranked 2nd, and Lima 9th in South America. Over a thousand users responded to the survey, according to El Comercio.

"[Machu Picchu], high in the cloud forest, the ruins of this former center of worship and royal retreat sprawl across the landscape, an awesome display of staircases, carved tombs and sacred temples," the website said.

"No wonder that Machu Picchu is the most visited place in Peru.”

The website describes Lima as “a fascinating city that holds many historical treasures," and recommends visiting its archaeological sites and its elegant cathedrals.

Although Iquitos failed to make the top 10, it was ranked the 22nd top place to visit in South America.

"The river and the rainforest are the main attractions," TripAdvisor said.

Buenos Aires, Argentina, led the top 10 ranking, followed by Machu Picchu (2), Rio de Janeiro (3), Cartagena de Indias (4), Bariloche (5), Santiago (6), Florionapolis (7), Bogota (8), Lima (9), and Sao Paolo (10).

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What do you need on your trek?

We added some suggested items that are useful on your trek to the bottom of this page.  These items are all available from amazon.com, but feel free to go to your local hiking store and ask an expert for some of their favorite items.  Just remember, expensive does not mean better.

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Alternative Treks to Machu Picchu

Many people dream of hiking to Machu Picchu, but many people don't realize that there are options in how to get there. The classic Inca trail is great, but it books up very quickly and is often not available on the dates you are hoping to travel.  There are many alternative routes available for trekking to Machu Picchu, and in many ways they are superior to the classic trail.

Alternative treks are always less crowded and cheaper than the Inca trail.  The Inca trail was regulated by the Peruvian government in 2000 and there is now a significant cost for each person (this includes guides and porters) to enter the trail.  Even though the Inca trail is limited to only 500 people per day, the trail is crowded and you are constantly asked to stop hiking for a minute to let people pass (often porters carry 25 kg).  

But the alternative treks do not only offer affordable hiking or open space - they offer amazing views, totally different experiences and the possibility to see how the Inca descendants live today.  These trails are always available and are ready to book.  Don't forget to pack your bathing suit, lots of trails offer hot springs - a great way to relax your bones after so much walking.

Below are some highlights of what you will see on our alternative treks.

*****

LARES TREK

The Lares trek is best way to see and experience life on the mountains.  You get to visit some local indigenous villages and participate in their daily life to better understand how the Incas lived.  You will step inside their homes and get to eat their food.  Remember some spending money, because its a great place to buy a little memory and see the different textiles they make on the mountain.  But that’s not all, we are in the Andes after all.  As we are hiking, we pass through big families of llamas and alpacas.  We also get to enjoy the nice views of valleys, rivers, lakes, glacier mountains and peaks, and nice flora and fauna. 

    

SALKANTAY TREK

The Salkantay trek is one of our most challenging treks offered, but the views can not be beat.  They are truly spectacular with highlights including views of Salkantay, the second highest peak in Cusco, walking through a forest of clouds, getting lost in the jungle and experiencing the tropical valleys, rivers and waterfalls.

    

VILCABAMA TREK

Machu Picchu is the sacred city of the Incas, but didn’t survive as long as Vilcabama, which was the last refuge for the Incas after the Spaniards invaded.  This trek is special in that you start and end at the two most cherished Inca ruins.  One of the best features of this trek is how unknown it still is - you will get to experience all this with very little crowd.  After experiencing the ruins of Vilcabama you will hike on the original Inca trail which hasn’t been restored.  We get to see nice mountains with snow, many lakes, rivers and waterfalls.  You will probably have a viewing of condors, eagles, and falcons before descending into tropical jungles where you can see coffee, passion fruit and cocoa plantations.

    

HUCHUY QOSQO

Perched on top of a cliff over the Sacred Valley is another alternative trek location, Huchuy QosQo.  This is a great way to explore the Andes without huge crowds.  You will walk through mountain passes, along ravines, by waterfalls and into amazing Inca ruins.  You will encounter beautiful flora and fauna including different varieties of cacti and will walk side by side with llamas and the other animals of the Andes.

    

ALPACA TREKS OR AUSANGATE TREK

These treks have recently been created for those who are interested in doing more hiking after or before they reach Machu Picchu.  It is still relatively unknown, so it’s great for those who want to avoid crowds.  This hike through the Andes involves impressive views of the biggest mountain in Cusco, Ausangate, and many other glacier mountains.  This is the only hike that you will get to see VICUÑAS, the animal with the softest wool in the world.  Of course you will get to enjoy all the animals of the Andes including alpacas, llamas, and condors.  This hike is quite challenging because the elevation is pretty substantial - make sure to get in shape.

    

CHOQUEKIRAW TREK 

Choquekiraw means “cradle of gold” and is another impressive Inca ruin which is located at Vilcabamba Mountain range.    There are beautiful views of the glacier mountains, flora and fauna.  The Incas became extra artistic at Choquekiraw, creating pictures of llamas with stone into the terraces.

    

This is just a small glance at what you will see and experience on your trek.  We hope you find the Andes as beautiful as we do.  

Visit www.AlpacaExpeditions.com for more information on each of these treks.


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Interview with the Owner of Alpaca Expeditions

Q: Raul, why did you start Alpaca Expeditions?

Raul: I started with the purpose of helping porters and their families.

Q: What makes Alpaca Expeditions different than other adventure companies?

Raul: I created Alpaca with two goals - a superior experience for my hikers and a better life for my porters.  I want to make sure that each trip is unique for the hikers who are going.  Each of us has different needs and expectations from a vacation and I want to plan each trip catered to the hikers needs.  But creating a better life for my porters is just as important to me.  I want to make sure my porters have a good life and an income that can support them and their families. I want to make sure they have the appropriate hiking equipment and clothing.  Sometimes people do not realize how difficult it is to be a porter, how physically demanding it is.  I want to make their life a little bit easier.

Raul, owner of Alpaca Expeditions

Q: Is it true that you were a porter and a guide before you started Alpaca?

Raul: I was a porter for three years while I was studying tourism at the University.  I then moved to the office for one year learning a little bit about how the business and how to organize tours. After graduating, I got the opportunity to guide my own groups to Machu Picchu.  I have been guiding now for four years.  All these experiences have helped me to understand how to run a company dedicated to making a truly unforgettable vacation for my travelers.

Q: Do you remember the first time you saw Machu Picchu?

Raul: Of course I do, it was magical.  Once I started working as a porter I really wanted to visit Machu Picchu.  But it was against the rules for porters to go through the Sun Gate. Eventually I was chosen to take one of the duffel bags of a hiker to Sanctuary Lodge, allowing me to finally see the wonder.  I had seen pictures of Machu Picchu of course, but arriving at the Sun Gate and Machu Picchu made me cry.  It was more than I imagined.  It was so beautiful and so much more than the photos show you.  In spite of being so tired from waking up at 3AM that morning, I found the energy to not only walk around Machu Picchu, but I ended up hiking to Huaynapicchu.  I now love watching my hikers get to the Sun Gate to watch their experience of seeing the real thing.

Q: How many times do you think you have done either the Inca trail or one of the alternative treks to Machu Picchu?

Raul: Since 2003, I have trekked more than 650 times on all the different treks to Machu Picchu.  I have had the opportunity to take 1000s of visitors from all over the world to our beautiful Inca ruin. 

Q: When do you think is the best time to visit Machu Picchu?

Raul:  There are two seasons: from November to March is the rainy season.  This is not the ideal time to visit.  From April through October is the dry season and the most perfect time to hike and to visit Machu Picchu, as you can see the sun rise over the ruins.  Even though the rainy season is not the ideal time to travel, you can still have an amazing adventure and its usually raining in showers and not all day.

Q: Can people hike the Inca trail without a guide?

Raul: No.  The Inca trail has been regulated in 2000.  They now only allow 500 people on the trail each day.  This includes porters, cooks and your guides.  You need to book the inca trail in advance.  Alpaca Expeditions has many alternative treks to Machu Picchu for those who can't book the Inca trail on the dates they were hoping for.  These treks are just as beautiful and offer amazing views and many inca ruins.  They are also less crowded and some people find it more enjoyable because of this.  

Q: What is the best piece of advice you can give to someone who is planning on doing one of the hikes to Machu Picchu?

Raul: Do not panic.  Everyone can do it.  It's not a race and everyone needs to take their time and walk in a comfortable pace.  This is your holiday.  Do not forget to enjoy the hike, the views, the experience.  

If you have any questions you would like Raul to answer, please comment below or email info@alpacaexpeditions.com.  

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